Tuesday: What a day full of little things. We drove along the foreshore route from Encounter Bay(near Victor Harbour) out to Bashams Beach where whales had been sighted over the last week. Here we saw 7 Southern Right Whales all waiting to give birth, one was a talked about white whale which had come into this bay for the first time ie it had not been sighted here in previous years. We sat and watched for quite a long time. Won't post photos as like the penguins they are hard for others to see.We were once again very lucky as they were very close to shore.
We then drove down to Goolwa where we watched the Steam Ranger train depart and checked out the Port with its Paddle wheelers and boat building dock.(we had wanted to ride this train from Victor Harbour to Goolwa and back but the weather didn't encourage this)
Next was a picturesque drive along some backroads heading to the Wellington vehicle ferry to cross the Murray River. On our way we discovered a little town called Milang, on the banks of Alexandrina Lake, where we had lunch next to the jetty. This was part of the Murray town's tourist drive and had been a big port and boat building town in the river's heyday. There was an interesting information board provided and the crane on the jetty was the first erected. There were 3 rows of beach/ fishing houses in the style of poverty shacks along the lake near the jetty. Here as elsewhere the water levels are badly effected by the lack of water coming down the Murray, and many boats were stranded.
We continued onto the Wellington vehicle ferry and down into the Coorong area where we stopped overnight.
Wednesday: We began the day with a 3km walk through the Coorong, round 2 different types of lakes - one carbonated, and one ground fed halcite(salt)lake. Apparently there are 4 distinctly different types of lakes in the Coorong which move in levels/layers back from the sea: salt water, ground water in the dunes, halcite, carbonate and finally freshwater the furthest in from the sea.(you really wanted to know this!!)We then drove The Loop Rd(dirt), which was well worth the drive as it closely follows the water system,as we headed on to Kingston and the big Lobster. George wanted to walk the sand dunes to the beach but this was a little too much for me.
At Kingston we discovered a very different lighthouse and decided to do the tour($5) This was the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse and was originally built out at sea on a platform. The only lighthouse of its kind. The lightkeepers and their families lived on the lighthouse in its first 60 years on rotation,before it was decided to provide accommodation for families on the mainland. The lighthouse is set up as it would have been then with original furniture donated back.I found this more interesting and I was more able to discuss things as I have just finished reading "the Lighthouse of Tragedy" about the Bustard Head Lighthouse we visited 2 months ago.
I wasn't aware at first that you actually climbed the inside stairs to the top of the Light and on deciding I couldn't and explaining my problem the tour guide wouldn't let me stop but egged me on. He and George were elated at the achievement though I'm paying for it now.I actually had to bum it down a few.Couldn't do the last flight to view the lenses.(To think 4 years ago the doctors believed I would never walk normally again or climb stairs, and I was still using a stick.)They even gave me a kid's sticker saying I climbed 124 steps to the top.(Am always very aware of my legs and choose carefully what I am willing/able to do and what I must leave to George and Jess. But am very grateful for my GP who was willing to fight the Insurers with me so I can do what I can today).
After this I'd decided I'd had enough so we drove onto Robe where we toured the town and booked in for the night. A beautiful spot overlooking the beaches and jetty.
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